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Disk Brake Pad Replacement Instructions
Courtesy
of Roger Lister
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I
had the opportunity to replace the brake pads on my wife's Concorde. After
I finished the driver's side, I decided to get a couple shots of the process for
others. First,
notice that I have a jackstand under the car. Please, for safety's sake,
always use jackstands because you will be pushing and shoving some. |
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On
the 94 Concorde I'm working on, it has the Kelsey-Hayes two pin calipers.
Both calipers (driver side and passenger are the same. Just, one is upside
down. I'll explain later...
I'm pointing at the wear indicator. If your brakes squeal with your foot
off the brakes... You need to replace the pads because this little piece
of metal is rubbing on the disk. Just to let you know you are on borrowed
time. And
yes, brake work CAN be dirty... |
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Not
all pads require you to pry a clip off first, and some use funky springs to hold
the pads in place in the caliper (Like my Caravan...). Anyway, be careful
when prying, would hate to get a screwdriver through the hand... Anyway,
once the clip is free, pull the pad away |
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The
inside pad pulls out from the piston with its own clips. Pull it right out
and then you are ready to start putting the new pads in. Before
the new pads go in, now is a good time to check the surface of the rotor for problems
and gouges. If you have had metal to metal contact, I'd take the rotors
to a shop to get turned. Watch minimum thickness... |
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Now
that the old pads are out, you need to push the piston back into the caliper.
You ARE NOT going to push it in by hand. There ARE special
expensive tools JUST for this purpose. If
you CAREFULLY center a "C" clamp in the piston, and remove the
cap from the brake fluid reservoir (wrap a rag around the opening and DON'T
let the fluid get on your paint...), and slowly turn the screw until the piston
is in the caliper. Then your new pads will fit around the rotor... |
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Modern
brakes are really good and quiet, but I still like to add the "Blue Goo"
disk brake quiet gel. Got into the habit years ago and just don't feel like
giving it up. It works, and it might not be needed today, but... Last
chance to check the piston seal for tears and such, because it is time to put
everything back together... |
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On the driver's
side, the BOTTOM of the caliper clips in the knuckle. On the passenger side,
the TOP does. Remember I said the same caliper is used for both sides?
This is why I say this. OK, the other side kicked my butt until I remembered
this little tidbit. See if I forget it again... |
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Now, put the
bolts back in for the pins and tighten them down. You did remember to check
the piston seal for damage? How about the brake line for cracks? Check
the piston for cracks? The caliper? After reassembly, another good
squirt of brake cleaner on the rotor surface is a good idea. I had a pretty
clean rag to start with, but thee is always oils in your hands. Get as much
of the stuff off as you can and you should be fine. |
Remember
to put the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir, and to pump the brakes a few
times before setting off down the street. Keep the "Blue Goo"
off of the pad material and handle the pad material as little as possible.
If you DO touch the pads, use the brake clean to remove oils... Make sure
you have all the bolts tightened down again. It
doesn't take very long to do, even if the rotors were turned by a machine shop.
A WHOLE lot easier than old fashioned drum brakes at all four wheels. Yes,
I do remember those... Owned a few... Another story for another day.
Email me for more info... |
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